Wood-fired beef, goat and hearty ranch feasts

Northern Mexico is “beef country”: a ranching belt stretching from Baja California across Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, Zacatecas, Nuevo León and Tamaulipas. Grilling over wood or charcoal is the soul of this region’s cooking. Iconic dishes include carne asada, arrachera (marinated skirt steak), costillas asadas and, in Nuevo León especially, cabrito al pastor—young goat spit-roasted over coals.